Dateline: Spring Street, New York City

These are reports from Linda Linguvic, who lives only a mile from the site of the tragedy at the World Trade Center. Linda writes a daily book and video review column. Her email is LindaL@nyc.rr.com

Day 1
Day 2
Day 3
Day 4
Day 5
Day 6
Day 7
Day 8
Day 9
Day 10
Day 11
Day 12

America Fights Back - October 8, 2001
A Walk on the West Side - October 12, 2001
A November Walk Downtown - November 19, 2001
Ground Zero - three months later - December 21, 2001
Towers of Light - March 12, 2002
Ground Zero Viewing Platform - April 8, 2002
Spring Street -- One Year Later - September 11, 2002
"The mourning is over," I think - October 14, 2002

Day 1 -- 8 p.m.

I used to have a great view of the World Trade Center -- about a mile away from my apartment.

That was yesterday.

What a difference a few hours make.

I am safe. I was in my office in midtown Manhattan. My family was not in the area either.

My neighbor, however, was just stepping outside of our building. She happened to look up at the familiar view and saw fire, which was caused by the first plane to hit the World Trade Center. Then she saw the second plane go right through the building. She stood there in horror as other neighbors came out of their doors. Soon the streets were filled with people fleeing the downtown area. These people were the lucky ones.

Others were not so lucky.

It's been a long day. I left my office at about 11:30 a.m. and spent some time with my son Steve and my daughter-in-law Reiko who live on 43rd Street. We spent a few hours watching the events on TV. There was no public transportation and so I walked the three miles home late in the afternoon.

The streets were full of people. Nobody was smiling. And once in a while someone would be crying. There were constant sirens and the only vehicles were ambulances and fire engines. Many stores were closed but some bars and restaurants were and were filled with people watching TV. Many office workers live in the outer boroughs with no way to get home.

When I got down to 12th Street, I went to St. Vincent Hospital. "Where can I give blood?" I asked.

"We have too many donors," they said. "Go to a hospital uptown or come back late tonight." I had just walked three miles so decided to donate tomorrow.

When I hit Greenwich Village I could see the smoke. It would have looked beautiful if I didn't know what it was. The sky was so clear. The sun was so bright. There were white puffs of real clouds. The trees in Washington Square Park were green. The fountain cooled the air with its spray. But people were unusually silent. Some had headphones on listening to radios. Others had cell phones.

When I reached my block my heart started to pound. The familiar outline of the World Trade Center wasn't there. A neighbor and I reached our building at about the same time.

"It's not there any more," I said.

Then she burst into tears.

I couldn't just stay home then. I had to get out. And so I took a hot shower, put on a pair of jeans and started walking downtown. Lots of people were out. Everyone had a camera. All eyes were on the white and gray cloud of smoke.

There was an area where people could sign up to be volunteers. I wrote my name down in the notebook. At the moment though all they needed were construction workers to do search and rescue. They thought they would start as soon as the fires ended later tonight. Everyone seemed to be young burly men in their twenties. I felt a lot of fatigue but did think that, if I had to, I, too, could dig through the rubble too. I don't think they need me for that and I feel very helpless. I want to do something. The very least I can do is give blood tomorrow.

I stood at a barricade a few blocks from the carnage and watched one of the last buildings of the World Trade Center collapse. We gasped in horror and some of us started to cry. Then the wind changed and there was debris in the air. That's when we started to run. I found myself running too. It was the first time I felt a little afraid.

Later I spoke to some ambulance drivers who had been there all day. They said they thought they were going to die. I understand that 16 fire companies were all lost as well as a lot of police officers who were in the buildings trying to rescue people when the buildings collapsed.

I expected to stay out later. Indeed, I might even go out again even though I'm tired. But the main phone lines were right next to the last building that collapsed tonight. And they expected that the entire area of lower Manhattan would be without phone service soon. But I wanted to get out some e-mail. And so I came home.

And here I am. I'm the same person I was when I woke up this morning. But the world has changed.

And so it goes... ..

 

Day 2 -- 5:30 a.m.

I can't dial up on my computer. Major frustration.

But nothing can keep me from writing.

My office will be closed today. I'll try to give blood. Unfortunately though I don't know how much good it will do. The early injuries were minor. And most of the others are dead.

My loved ones are safe.

But there are so many others.

Random thoughts and feelings surface.

I'll never forget watching that building collapse yesterday. It just fell in upon itself. And all of us standing there gave a collective moan.

And then I remember the birds.

As soon as the building fell there was several flocks of birds, flying in formation -- small black birds against the blue sky of early twilight.

I had forgotten about the birds.

But the vision of those birds haunted me all night. And I know that scene will stay in my memory forever.

It was after that that we felt the wind and the debris and the people started to run too.

There was really no threat to us but I knew that. We were far enough away from the horror. My own experience was just a tinge, just a bare shadow of what so many of my fellow Americans felt this day.

I heard some other stories from friends. One woman's son was in one of the buildings on a lower floor. He escaped with his life but when he looked up he saw people jumping out of the upper floors. He'll never forget the sight of a man falling through space and the way his tie was streaming behind him.

And then there was another friend, whose daughter's playmate had a father who was killed in the explosion.

An insurance company I used to work, Marsh and McLennan, had 1700 people working in the building that day. Only 500 of them had been accounted for last night.

And then there was the young high school couple walking down the street and holding hands. "This is history," they said to each other. "We'll be telling our grandchildren about this."

 

Day 3 -- 5 a.m.

No Internet connection yet. I've tried several dial-up numbers. Nothing works. I try to not let it bother me.

My loved ones are alive and well and that's all that counts.

Considering I'm one of those people living downtown, I'm lucky. There's been no damage to my building, I have electricity and phone service.

My office was closed yesterday and I spent the morning on the phone with friends. As far as I know my small circle of friends are well.

My close friend, Howard, has AIDS. "I used to be so focused on my own illness," he said. "But now it seems like a small thing."

I understand.

All my own little petty complaints seem like nothing also.

It seems like a lifetime ago but it was only Tuesday morning. We're having a primary election here in New York and I had just voted. Then I took the subway to work. I'm reading "The Age of Innocence" by Edith Wharton. As the train was pulling into the station I had just read a part in the book where the young Newland Archer is looking at his future life as boring and meaningless. When my train pulled into Grand Central Station I had to close the book and the thought of those words lingered in my mind and I realized how many of us can relate to them. It just seems ironic that within the next hour, I knew that everything about how I viewed the world would be changed forever.

So on Wednesday morning, when I step outside, these thoughts are heavy on my mind.

I meet people from my building. Hear the stories. Everyone seems to know someone who was in the building. Right now I'm hearing the stories of the survivors. There's my neighbor's best friend who walked down 87 floors. The building collapsed as she got to the ground floor. It was pitch black and the people were trapped. But they made a human chain and searched for the light. One woman had lost her shoes. A man who had carried his computer down all 87 floors put the computer down and picked up the woman. This small group eventually made it out of the building.

A neighbor tells me she's on her way to the store to buy food to hoard. She says that Manhattan is cut off and there are no deliveries of fresh food. I hadn't thought of that and think she's a little paranoid. But everyone has been a little paranoid about something these days.

There are no vehicles on the street other than police, fire and military vehicles. Many are covered with debris. There is no debris in my immediate vicinity though. Some people are riding bikes. Some are wearing little white masks that cover their mouths and noses.

I look South. The World Trade Center isn't there.

It's a clear warm day. I walk North. My mission for the day is to give blood. I live two blocks south of Houston Street. (That's why they call my neighborhood "Soho" which means "SOuth of HOuston".)

There are barricades on Houston Street manned by police and army personnel. I'm allowed to walk north but the officer informs me that I have to have identification, which includes my address if I want to return. I check my wallet. My driver's license is there.

When I cross the Houston Street border, I'm in Greenwich Village. From 1982 to 1992 I was an auxiliary police officer here. I wore a uniform, carried a nightstick and a radio and patrolled the streets on Saturday nights. I was a volunteer. I didn't get paid. And I didn't carry a gun. Eventually I became a lieutenant. There are very few auxiliary police officers now. New York City has changed and more regular officers have been hired. But there are still a few of my former colleagues around. I smile when I see Maury in his crisp white dress shirt, and sergeant's stripes on his arm. During the five minutes we speak, he answers questions and gives directions to a dozen people. He tells me he rarely patrols any more, but because of the emergency, "I dug out the old uniform." I understand that the auxiliary captain who is now in his late seventies has done the same thing and has been out all day doing what he could.

I'm immediately sorry I gave my uniform away many years ago. The feeling of being helpless is overwhelming.

I walk north to Saint Vincent's hospital. There is a line to give blood that goes all around the block. A volunteer tells us there is a two-hour wait outside the hospital and another two hour wait inside. As people arrive he tells us to go up to the Red Cross on 66th and Amsterdam Avenue. I take one look at people standing in the hot sun, not knowing if they will even be able to give blood, and I decide to go uptown to the Red Cross.

There are buses running sporadically north of 14th street, which is just another two blocks north. When I get to 14th Street there are more barricades and again the armed forces personnel warn me that I won't be able to come back without showing I.D. I can't help thinking about how it must be to live in the Middle East, where people have to pass through constant checkpoints all the time.

As there is little traffic on the street, the bus moves quickly. Most businesses are closed.

When I get uptown to the Red Cross, they are turning people away. They have enough blood. Of course they would. Most of the victims of the tragedy are dead. I fill out a form to be a volunteer. I'm told they have enough volunteers right now but might call me next week.

I'm uptown. My daughter Wini lives nearby. I take a chance and ring her bell. She's home. I'm so glad to see her. Mostly, we talk about what's going on around us. And how lucky we are to be safe. It feels good to be with her. When it comes down to basics, there's nothing like being with our loved ones at a time like this. We hear that the air quality is bad downtown so she lends me a bandana to put over my nose when I leave.

I wait an hour for a bus. I don't even mind. With the exception of a light amount of traffic, the City uptown hasn't changed that much.

The bus moves quickly down Fifth Avenue, which is free of cars. Most of the stores are closed but have put up American flags. It's good to see all those flags. The bus goes as far as 14th Street. There is dust in the air and it's hard to breath. I wear the bandana some of the time but it makes me very warm.

There are signs about a candlelight vigil in Washington Square Park. I think of going but later change my mind because my throat is hurting from the debris-filled air by the time I get home. I'm also filled with a strange kind of exhaustion. I just want to stay home.

Some people have chosen to do different things to help A good friend of mine who lives uptown on 89th Street collected men's clothing from her building complex and brought it to an area to be given to the fire fighters and emergency workers when they finish the disgusting duty of digging out bodies from the debris. Another friend has actually gone out and purchased a dozen pair of socks and brought it to a firehouse. Other people are giving money.

I feel helpless. I wish I could do more. But I can't even get my e-mails out.

 

Day 4 -- 7 a.m.

I went to work yesterday. There was a special subway train that went uptown on the Sixth Avenue line. The train was very empty. People are afraid of biological warfare. I was glad when I got out at 42nd Street where it looks almost normal except for the large amount of police presence and dazed look on everyone's face.

There was a lot of hugging between co-workers, all glad to be alive. Our small group of about 20 people was fortunate in that we didn't lose close members of our families. But everybody knows someone who did. And everybody has a survivor story such as the man whose brother worked on the 95th floor and was waiting for the elevator when the first plane struck and so got out of the building right away.

My boss couldn't get in to work at all yesterday. He lives on Staten Island and was actually on the ferry. But the police called for a blockade because they were searching for a suspect. And so the ferry turned around and nobody could get to Manhattan from Staten Island yesterday.

It was hard to concentrate on work but I tried. Then, about noon, we heard an announcement. "Attention. We are evacuating 52 Vanderbilt. Leave the building immediately and use the staircase."

I know I moved with the speed of lightning down the four floors to the street. I couldn't help thinking about how, in the past, everyone took fire drills so lightly. I work directly across the street from Grand Central Station and the police were directing everyone away from there.

"Don't stop and ask questions," they commanded, "just keep moving away."

All traffic was completely stopped. I was with a co-worker, Ann Marie, and we started to move west. When we looked up, we could see how surrounded we were surrounded by tall buildings. I remember the anxiety of not knowing which direction to go as people streamed out of the buildings as much confused as we were.

We walked north past Rockefeller Center, where people were sitting on the low cement benches enjoying the afternoon sun and eating lunch and there were no more people streaming out of buildings. It was crowded but not more than the normal lunch hour crowd. We went into the Donell Library on 53rd Street for a short while. It seemed normal in there although they were definitely understaffed. "While we're here," I suggested to Ann Marie," why don't you apply for a library card." While she was doing that I couldn't help thinking about this small act making a statement about a future we believed in - a future where we could again take for granted such small pleasures as borrowing a book or a video from the library.

Out on the street, it all looked normal. We called our office and discovered that the evacuation was just a false alarm because of a suspicious package that was found in Grand Central Station. Ann Marie and I returned. Only a little more than an hour had elapsed. I understand there were a lot of bomb scares all over the city. Everyone is nervous. Some people show annoyance with others and lash out. Others will burst into tears at a moment's notice. I hear of a group of young toughs from a gym in Queens who made it a point to go to Brooklyn with the specific purpose of beating up Arabs. I hear someone say that the attack on the WTC was because the U.S. defended the Jews.

I'm not anxious to rush home after work and so I sit with a friend at the Oyster Bar in Grand Central Terminal and linger over a martini and a lot of peanuts. This is a place that is always teeming with people but there are few people here tonight. We look at the beautiful tile roof of the bar and lovely newly renovated terminal. All of a sudden I really appreciate it. "Here today, gone tomorrow," I think.

There are no subways going downtown and so I walk to Fifth Avenue to get a bus. The air smells sweet and dusty. No vehicles are permitted south of 14th Street and so I start to walk home. Again I have to show my driver's license to the military personnel to cross 14th Street and then again downtown at Houston Street. I've come to think of these stops as "checkpoint Charlie's." Downtown the air is oppressive and it gets worse as I move downtown.

Yesterday it was just plain dusty. Today, that dust is mixed with a sickly sweet smell that reminds me of rotting flowers. The weather has been hot and humid. And what I think I smell is the stench of all those bodies decomposing.

When I stop at my grocery store the shelves are empty as there have been no deliveries. No bread, no milk, very little fresh fruit -- but they do have a large piece of watermelon that I purchase with delight.

I'm glad to come home and put on my air conditioner. It blocks out the smell. When I go to my computer I find that the dial up now works and I'm thrilled to see my two queued up messages finally fly and download 113 wonderful e-mail messages from you guys.

I'm so glad it's Friday now. I can't wait to go to Queens and hug my grandchildren.

 

Day 5 -- 9 a.m.

It rained yesterday. It was a clean gentle rain. What a pleasure to be able to take a deep breath of dust-free air. I visited my daughter Regina and my grandchildren in Queens. It was the first time I'd left Manhattan since what we are all now referring to now as "the craziness".

My son Steve, his wife Reiko and my daughter Wini drove there, but couldn't have picked me up downtown because of the ban on cars. The subway was running but I was a little nervous because I had heard that another building, Liberty Plaza, was about to fall down and the vibrations might effect the subway. I was glad to hear that the express bus to Queens was running and so all I had to do was get up to 36th Street for that.

My thoughts were strange as I left my apartment. Would it be there when I came back? What should I take with me? I hadn't felt this way all week as I traveled uptown or I went to work. All of a sudden though I felt I was fleeing a war zone. I put on heavy socks and wore my raincoat as I didn't know how far I might have to walk, but with the exception of a book to read and a bottle of water I didn't want to weigh myself down with any unnecessary stuff. As I locked my door and left, my one regret was that if my computer got destroyed, I wouldn't have a copy of my e-mail list.

The borough of Queens is like another world. There are cars on the streets and food in the stores. And their skyline hasn't changed at all.

It was great to all be together as a family. Even my ex-husband and his wife were there. The children never seemed more precious. The TV was on constantly and we watched President Bush visit the disaster site. I didn't vote for him, but totally support him now. He's coming through as a real leader of the American people.

We took a lot of photos of each other. And videotaped the whole family singing "God Bless America." Our family is not known for our singing voices and we didn't know the words of the song, but I know that years from now this will be a precious memory.

I rode back to the City in my son's car. It's so sad coming over the bridge and looking at the Manhattan skyline. I'll never be able to look at it again and not see the ghosts of those magnificent twin towers in my mind's eye, and realize what we all have lost.

By now we all know of people who are missing or dead. I think of them all, the horror they must have gone through. My son knows of a Puerto Rican bus boy who worked at the Windows of the World restaurant. My daughter knows of the Fire Captain who led his ill-fated fire company up those stairs. A friend of mine knew someone who left Boston expecting to go to Los Angeles and wound up a victim on the missile that ended American innocence forever. Another friend of lost a good friend. And the son of a friend whose wedding I just attended lost his lifetime best friend. These stories mount.

Later, I take the bus downtown from 42nd Street and am surprised that the bus goes all the way down to Eighth Street. I'm thrilled they've extended the "no traffic" zone down to Canal Street and I no longer have to show my I.D. to go home. I walk past the Barnes and Noble on Astor Place on the slim chance they might be open. I just finished reading "The Age of Innocence" because they were planning a book discussion about that book last night. But Barnes and Noble is locked up tight as it has been since the "craziness".

My grocery store has milk and bread. Deliveries are getting through. I see a mouse scamper across the floor and let the owner know. She looks at me with sadness. "It must be because of the..." She doesn't finish her sentence. I nod my head in understanding.

The rain has stopped but the air still seems clean.

There's a sign in my building to come downstairs with a lighted candle at 7 p.m. I find a candle and do that. There are American flags hung out of windows. Up and down the block people are holding lighted candles. Nobody speaks. One man is videotaping it all. We hear their motors of the military fighter planes above. Until now, there were never planes flying around here. After all, this whole area was sacred space. The World Trade Center used to be here.

The night is cool. I leave my window open. But somewhere in the middle of the night I smell that sickly sweet smell again. Way before dawn there are fire engines right on my block. By the time I get to the window they are gone. The streetlight and the moon cast just enough light for me to see a rat rummaging through the garbage bags piled high across the street. And the only sound is that of the military plane circling above.

 

Day 6 -- 8 a.m.

The barricades have been moved two blocks south of here. There are cars in the streets and the stores have been able to get deliveries. Restrictions have been lifted. The air is cleaner. It almost seems normal.

But things are not normal. Not for those of us living here.

I spend Saturday morning defrosting my refrigerator. Every now and then I burst into tears. There is no way I can go about my usual weekend routine and visit the gym. It just seems too frivolous.

I have a small American Flag that I bought during the Gulf War. I prop it outside of my window and am glad to see that many others on my block have done the same. I also have a small pin with an American Flag. I've been wearing this since the craziness started.

In the afternoon, I walk two blocks south to Canal Street where the barricades are. This is the heart of Chinatown and the streets are full of people. Everyone's eyes are turned to the white cloud of dust, which has replaced the World Trade Center. In the bright autumn sunshine it could be mistaken for just another cloud. But we all know better.

The shops are doing a lively business in American Flags as well as headbands and scarves decorated with stars and stripes. The garish tee shirts are not doing so well. One says "American Under Attack" superimposed over the buildings of the World Trade Center that don't exist any more. Another says "Never Forget the World Trade Center 1976-2001" Another has the quote from the President's speech about staying strong and the words "God Bless New York and God Bless America." These tee shirts offend me. This is not an event to be celebrated. I'm glad to see that nobody is buying them even though the price is low -- FIVE tee shirts for ten dollars. Later on in the evening the price of the shirts drop to SIX tee shirts for $10. After all, this is Chinatown, home of sweatshops for illegal immigrants.

The corner of Church Street, by the Post Office has turned into an impromptu shrine. There are candles and flowers and photos of loved ones. Every lamppost and telephone booth is covered with photos of missing people with pleas for information. There's Azael Vasquez who worked in food service on the 101st floor. There's an Indian man who worked for a brokerage firm. There's someone who worked as a pastry chef. And then there's Casey Cho, an attractive young woman who is described as having a dragon tattoo on her back. In the photo she's smiling and holding a white fluffy dog. I see that she worked for Marsh and McLennan. I can't help bursting into tears again. I used to work for Marsh and McLennan about 20 years ago.

Later in the evening I go back to Canal Street with my gentleman friend. We stand on the street as construction trucks come and go. A family of four with the South American features of Guatemalans approach carrying a large heavy cooler. "Sandwiches" says the woman and opens the cooler to show the officers at least 40 neatly wrapped sandwiches. These people don't seem to have much money, and yet they prepared all this food for the workers. I can't help crying again.

We watch a Con Ed truck approach the barricades. We watch the State Trooper check their I.D. He opens the back of the truck and goes inside, checking to make sure everything is legitimate. This happens with every truck that comes by.

All of the trucks are flying American Flags.

Later, we see some of the firemen at the change of shift. We join the people behind the barricades applauding them. "Thank you," we cry and there are tears in my eyes again. Some firemen sit down heavily on the ground and take off their helmets. There are covered with dirt and debris, their bodies reflecting complete exhaustion. One happens to be black and the other white, both strong Americans working together in a show of solidarity that we take for granted.

This is America, the land that I love.

 

Day 7-- 6 a.m.

It's a bright clear autumn morning but the large white cloud that is not a cloud is still there. I understand it's actually steam from the hosing down of the fires that have been raging for days. Right now it covers that hole in the world that came from the sky last week. When it does clear I fear that the clear open space will make us feel even worse.

All I want to do is be out on the street today, sharing the city in mourning this weekend. There are flowers outside of the firehouse on West 3rd Street. And candles. And hand made cards from children. And of course more postings of photos of loved ones lost. Someone has pasted up a sketch from one of the local newspapers. It shows some fire fighters on top of the World Trade Center. There is nothing there but sky and clouds. "We've finally reached the top." is the caption.

On Christopher Street the bells of St. Veronica's church are playing "Abide With Me" as their service is ending. My friend and I walk up the steps and shake hands with the pastor who looks at us with loving eyes.

The West Side Highway at Christopher Street is a staging area for the news media with satellite dishes on top of the trucks. They're from New England and Philadelphia and Ohio, Quebec, Utah, Ontario as well as other places. People who live in Battery Park City can enter a staging area here. This is the neighborhood that bordered the World Trade Center, a beautiful area overlooking the Hudson River and the Statue of Liberty. I understand that they had to evacuate and that many of their windows were blown out, their apartments covered with debris. They're going to be escorted back to retrieve some belongings. I have no idea if and when they'll ever be able to return. That whole area was built on landfill and I wonder what damage occurred to the foundations of the buildings.

We walk downtown on the east side of the highway. My eyes scan the horizon. There is something I yearn to see. And sure enough, when we get to Houston Street I see it. Again my eyes fill with tears as I have a clear view of the Statue of Liberty. There she stands, on Liberty Island, her torch held high. To her left, on the land, is that long white cloud of steam where the World Trade Center used to be. Again I look at the Statue. "She's still there," I think. "Thank God she's still there."

There are candles perched on a simple police barricade, and wax has dripped over the blue painted wood. It must have been windy because all of the candles are out, and the glasses that contained some of them are cracked, broken and scorched. There are Jewish memorial candles, votive candles, candles in jars with pictures of saints, scented candles meant to sweeten a room.

Canal Street is busy with commerce as well as the throngs of people who have come to cheer on the fire fighters and stare at the white cloud of steam in the background. There is more choice in tee shirt designs now but the entire area is sold out of American Flags.

I keep walking all day, coming home at various times for a break. I see a mouse in my apartment. No surprise. The earth has been shaken under our feet. I put out traps and will inform my landlord tomorrow. Traps are a brutal way to kill them. But hard choices are necessary sometimes.

Later I go back to the West Side Highway at Christopher Street. There's a large group of people standing on the West Side Highway cheering for the fire fighters and other volunteer workers who are leaving the sight. They stand there holding signs with the simple words "Thank You". They wave flags. I'm delighted that I recognize Sue, who happens to be a recipient of this column and lives on 10th Street. She's got bright red lipstick on and a red, white and blue scarf tied around her head. Her enthusiasm is infectious and I join the group as we stand on a small uprise and wave and cheer. Many of the passenger cars have American Flags and raise "thumbs up" to our small group.

"I was so depressed," says Sue. "All the regular volunteer organizations say they have more volunteers than they need. And then someone put up a notice in my building. If we can't volunteer ourselves, we can support those who do." Then she turned away from me as another truck of workers passed by. "Whoaaa..." she called out to them.... "Thank you. Thank you. Thank you." Sue's an attractive woman, but at that moment, she never looked more beautiful.

I enter the lovely park that runs along the waterfront. Since I cannot walk south, I walk north. Along a gated wall there are hundreds of yellow ribbons. A young woman hands me one of these ribbons. She and her small group of friends bought hundreds of yards of these large yellow ribbons, cut them to a good size and stapled on a small piece of paper to write a message. I meant to write something inspiring, but instead I simply write "Some day the tears will stop flowing - but now it is time to cry."

I went out again at night. It was dark and so was the mood. On Sixth Avenue and Canal Street an angry man stood on a platform holding a picture of Osama bin Laden and spewing forth words of hate. He was arguing with a man wearing a Jesus tee shirt who was trying to show him that hate was not the way. As I approached, a woman greeted me by saying "Hello Sister," and gave me a small brochure from the Wings of Faith Apostolic Church.

There were less people on the streets but yet the constant flow of trucks and workers covered with dirt and debris was still there. I feel their frustration at the difficult and sad work they have to do. The cheering was petering out. But the work would go on and on and on.

Later this morning I will go back to work. The stock market will open. We will try to make things seem normal. I'll go through the motions today. We'll get by. Somehow.

 

Day 8 -- 6 a.m.

I went to work yesterday. It was hard to concentrate.

The stock market opened. That, in itself, was a major accomplishment. Con Ed crews worked round the clock over the weekend to bring telephone service and electricity to Wall Street. The wheels of commerce are slowly turning again. Stocks plunged of course. But so what?

Businesses are open again. Traffic flows freely on the streets. But there is a huge police presence all around the City. And one of the entrances to Grand Central Terminal is closed.

The nation is jittery.

A printer we do business with lives in Staten Island, which is accessible to Manhattan only by ferry or bridge. On Thursday, Staten Island was closed off because the police were looking for a terrorist. Our printer friend, a middle aged Italian-American, had been on an express bus to Manhattan, but the bus turned around and brought him right back to his street. His house is on top of a long hill and he decided to jog home. No sooner did he get inside his house than his doorbell rang. It was the FBI. They wanted to know why he was running and wanted to see a book he had been carrying. "I guess they wanted to see if was the Koran," he tells us jokingly. Finally he convinced them he was only jogging and breathed a sigh of relief when they left. The next day his wife pointed out a small blurb in their local paper which stated that a Middle-Eastern looking man was seen running on Richmond Road and stopped for questioning. "Maybe I should dye my hair blonde," he says, patting his balding scalp.

I went to synagogue last night. On my way I passed by the Armory on 25th and Lexington Avenue. This is where the victims' families went to register their missing loved ones. For two blocks in either direction, every surface is covered with the photos. There are a few hundred of these photos in the downtown area where I live, but here at the armory there are literally several thousand. There's a feeling of sad quietness on these streets as well as a feeling of horror as we are reminded again and again of the great human toll that has touched everyone's hearts.

These flyers are simple photocopies, often in color, of the missing. Yes, we still refer to them as missing, as if they might just be walking down the street, wandering around lost, and someone would recognize them and bring them home. We all know that's not true. This wall of photos is not a search for missing people. It is a memorial to the dead. And it screams. It screams its message right it our faces. It forces us to look, to really look at the people who all seem so alive in the photos. They're smiling at the camera. They're in their best clothes at celebration. They're holding babies. One is of a young man and a little boy at a birthday party. The caption says, "Please find my daddy!"

The synagogue I attend does not own a building. It holds services in the Gustavus Adolphus Lutheran Church at 155 East 22nd Street. Jewish synagogues usually sell tickets to attend services on the High Holy Days. But "The Little Synagogue" is different because it is completely free. Rabbi Swiss, now in his eighties, was brought up in a poor neighborhood in lower Manhattan. His grandfather had no legs and supported his wife and young grandson by begging for pennies on the streets of New York. No wonder the rabbi has such a big heart for the poor and disenfranchised. And here, in a church, surrounded by Christian symbolism, he holds sweet and spiritual Jewish services, which are open to all.

I'm early and the Rabbi greets me warmly. As he's on my e-mail list he knows me well. Later, he calls me up to the pulpit to read a prayer in English. I'm honored. I rarely go to synagogue and my life is basically secular. I stand there proudly, wearing a small American Flag pin that I've worn constantly since the start of the craziness, and read a prayer for the dead. The service ends with us all singing "America the Beautiful". Everyone is crying.

Later, I have dinner with a friend and then walk slowly downtown. By the time I get to 14th Street, the air becomes sickly sweet and thick again. There are no stars in the sky tonight and the cloud that is not a cloud is still there. But it really is little lighter than it's been all week.

 

Day 9 -- 8 a.m.

Above Canal Street its business as usual. The subway lines are running, people are back at work, and New York traffic has its usual congestion. The grizzly work continues of course. It might take months to recover all the body parts and a full year before they are identified. Life in New York will never exactly be the same.

But the period of mourning is coming to a close. Yesterday, at work, I found myself laughing out loud when a co-worker wanted to remind me of something and walked around the office with a little yellow sticky reminder note on her nose. It sure felt good to laugh.

I'm still sad when I see those photos of lost loved ones posted everywhere. And, by the way, I understand that Kinko's scanned all those photos and made those copies without charge - a truly good deed in this time of crisis. They've been hanging up for over a week now and some of them are looking worn. One good rain and they'll all be washed away.

My friend at work, Ann Marie, had been wearing a small American flag pin in her lapel all day. "I'd like to buy one for the Rabbi", I said, as I was about to leave the office to go to the synagogue for the second day of services. "Where did you get it?" These pins are hard to get now. Understandably there's been a rush on them. I certainly wouldn't be able to locate one easily. Without a moment's hesitation, Ann Marie just took it off her shirt and handed it to me.

I got to synagogue early and was sitting in a pew near the aisle when the rabbi came in. "Hold out your hand," I said, and then I gave him the little flag pin. His face that had been so sad broke into a wide smile. I helped him put it on his lapel. He wore a Jewish prayer shawl of course, but it was loosely wrapped around him. And all though the service that tiny flag would catch a ray of light at just the right time, a clear and steady symbol of what it means to be a American.

I was really very tired when I got home. I get up every day before dawn and the stress of the week was taking its toll. I was in my apartment when I suddenly realized that I had walked down my block and come upstairs without searching the horizon to look for the cloud of steam or to picture once again those once majestic towers that are there no more.

This morning the sun is shining.

 

Day 10 -- 6 a.m.

It was almost 4 p.m., and I had taken a vacation day from work, thinking of rising early and attending synagogue in the morning. But I slept late and just couldn't get myself to leave my apartment until the afternoon. I hadn't worked out since before the "craziness" and my body craved exercise. And so I walked north to the 13th street branch of the New York Health and Racquet Club where I am a member.

"I guess Whitehall Street is closed," I said to the young lady at the front desk, referring to one of the locations further downtown, south of the disaster area at the very tip of lower Manhattan.

"Oh no," she answered, "It's been open 24 hours since Day One. We used it as a place for the firemen and workers to take showers."

I had already given her my membership card to swipe but I didn't go to the locker room. I wanted to go downtown. All my experience of the disaster had been north of the area. But the southern tip of Manhattan which had been south of the World Trade Center had recently opened up in order to set Wall Street in motion at the beginning of the week. And so I jumped on the subway at 14th Street and was there within the next half hour.

Battery Park is completely barricaded off from the public and being used as an army base. There are large green tents and lots of military personnel. Police direct the flow of people between the Staten Island Ferry and the subway and the office buildings are occupied. The Whitehall Street branch of The New York Health and Racquet Club has a huge American Flag in front.

I ask the two young ladies at the front desk how it has been here. They tell me how glad they've been to be able to help out. There are large piles of neatly folded clean clothing that people have donated so that the rescue workers can have clean clothes, and a large tray of food that has been sent over by one of the corporations. "Massage therapists have been volunteering their time since Day One," they tell me. "And we set up two of the racquet courts upstairs as places for the workers to sleep." Right there in the front vestibule there's a policeman getting a neck massage. A female police officer is drinking a cup of coffee. I notice she's wearing high boots that come up to her knees.

Of course I wouldn't be able to tell if the people in the actual gym are rescue workers or just plain members but I assume they are just members. After all, I can't imagine why a rescue worker would want to lift weights or run on a treadmill after the kind of heavy physical labor they are enduring. But hey - you never know.

I find my own very light workout quite challenging. I'm getting back into familiar routines. In the locker room there's a conversation about comfort foods. Everyone's been pigging out on comfort foods this week. I've done it too. Haagan Das sure is inviting when there's death and destruction all around.

 

Day 11 -- The World Policy Institute

Little did I know when I made plans to attend the World Policy Institute's program about the first nine months of the Bush Administration's foreign policy, that the current historical events would raise its importance to mammoth proportions. I've been attending these free programs, held at the New School in New York City, for a couple of years now. They are always interesting. There were several hundred people in the audience but I was surprised that there were empty seats. After all, President Bush was scheduled to address the nation just a few hours later and the world's eyes are upon him now. I sat I the audience with two friends, all of us walking wounded from the craziness. Before the program started we spoke of people we knew - a young woman who worked for Marsh and McLennan and whose three small children aged 2, 5 and 7 cry and wonder why their mother isn't ever going to come home; a best friend who posed for fun photos on the beach with my friend just a few weeks ago; a young man, native of South Africa whose father had come to visit his son in New York just that day to find his son missing. The father is fortunate though because the son's body has been found. I guess that's something to be thankful for.

And so there was more than just intellectual interest in this program, which was being presented on a day that the nation heard that the death toll was more than any single battle in the Civil War and more than double the amount of people who perished at Pearl Harbor.

The first speaker was Walter Russell Mead, a political economist and senior Fellow for U.S. foreign Policy at the Council on Foreign Relations and author of several books about foreign policy. He's a large man in his early fifties with wide shoulders, a full head of curly graying light hair and well-trimmed beard. He joked about coming from South Carolina and occasionally purposely lapsed into a Southern accent to make his point, showing us that beneath his well-tailored suit, formal education and wire-rimmed glasses, he was just a "good ole boy" at heart.

I was glad I had just finished reading the book, "The Founding Brothers" because Mr. Mead spoke from an historical perspective illustrating how the same philosophical and regional debates that have been going on since the very beginnings of our country are now going on today. As he sees it, there are four very different ways of thinking: (1) Hamiltonian -- a strong national government interested in expanding big business; (2) Jacksonian -- a "don't tread on me" isolationist philosophy; (3) Wilsonian - a "moral mandate" philosophy; and (4) Jeffersonian - skeptical of foreign policy putting prime importance on our civil rights at home. Obviously, this gentleman has spent a lifetime developing these categories and cleverly categorizing all events though them. For example he said that Clinton was a Hamiltonian/Wilsonian and that George Bush's got elected because he espoused the opposite Jacksonsian/Jeffersonian philosophy. He spoke about how George Bush has changed since the recent events, realizing the importance of building multi-national support.

Frankly, I found all of this a little off-putting, as did the other gentleman on the panel, Dr. William Schulz, the Executive Director of Amnesty International USA and author of several books. He joked that he was a Lincolnian and refused to let foreign policy be so compartmentalized. He, too, was a large man with gray hair, a well-trimmed beard and wire-rimmed glasses. He, too, was a good speaker but he didn't talk about his own roots or make jokes. But the thing I most clearly remember about him was that he was wearing a bright red tie and I kept noticing that bit of bright color in the rather somber auditorium.

But even though both of these men took different approaches, they were surprisingly alike. They just used different references to make their points.

Both were against the knee jerk reaction of lashing out without any clear understanding of what we are doing. Mr. Mead called it a Jacksonian reaction of "Ready! Fire! Aim!" Dr. Schultz spoke of the importance of understanding our enemy. For example, during the initial attack, the President referred to the terrorists as "cowards". I remember I disagreed with that label myself. They might have committed an horrific act, but they certainly weren't cowards. To them, they were assuring themselves of eternal life.

Dr. Schulz discussed the importance of the role of religion and stressed that the terrorists come from more than one country. He read off a long list of countries where they exist, stressing that it is only the fringe element that wants to destroy us. He believes that we must make sure we differentiate between the radicals and the moderate Moslems and seek the support of the moderates. There are great complexities to the diplomacy and we must stay away from such words as calling our cause a crusade to rid the world of evil. This is too reminiscent of the middle ages and is sure to awaken the sensitivities of even the most moderate of Arabs.

The question and answer period brought just one of the nut-jobs who read a proclamation he had gotten off a website from a radial group of Moslems calling for a holy war against us. Both panelists as well as the audience reacted to his outburst negatively and know this is a position we must watch out for. Of course, the World Policy Institute is held in an atmosphere of higher learning and it's just occasionally that the radical element of our own society wanders in there. We must be aware though that there are people out there who don't understand and are calling for an all out war. Schulz was especially clear in laying out the potential far-reaching and awful circumstances that could result from action without understanding. When I left the auditorium there was still the slight smell of smoke in the air. It had been raining earlier and the flyers all over the storefronts and telephone booths are starting to tatter. One of my e-mail recipients just wrote to tell me she was moved when she saw one with the words "Found - RIP". The sadness is still all around us.

Later, I watched President Bush's address to the nation on television. I was very favorably impressed. We must retaliate. And yes, we must make sacrifices. But we have to be sure we aim for and hit the right target.

For more information about the World Policy Institute, check out their website http://worldpolicy.org/

 

Day 12 -- The Bus Driver

I was on my way back to Manhattan after a delightful day in Queens, my arms still warm from hugging my grandchildren. Little Forrest is now 22 months old and his baby sister Serena is just 5 months, both too young to have any comprehension of the craziness going on around them.

"What will your world be like, little ones," I think. I had a similar feeling in 1963 when President Kennedy was killed and my son was just a few days old. And then I wonder what my own dear departed parents must have felt when Pearl Harbor was attacked and I, myself, was about the same age then as little Forrest is now.

The Q-46 bus moved slowly up Union Turnpike towards the subway station. The bus driver was a tall slim white man, his scalp shaved to cover a receding hairline. His voice reflected the unmistakable cadence of New York and there was fear underneath his anger. He was addressing his comments to a middle-aged woman with a deep Russian accent in the front seat who basically just nodded her head in agreement.

"I just don't feel comfortable going to bed any more," he said. "And I'll have a creepy feeling going into Manhattan. I'll probably feel that way for the rest of my life."

I know what he meant. I live with that creepy feeling every day. The sign on the E train I traveled on this morning no longer says "World Trade Center" as the final destination. It now says "Euclid Avenue" which is actually in Brooklyn.

His conversation now turned towards the terrorists. "They're told they're going to a better place," he said. "Can't see that I blame them much - compared to the way they live."

I thought of my beautiful grandchildren, their lovely house, the abundance of food. We live so well in America.

The bus driver's voice rose in anger against Afghanistan. "I say we just level the whole country," he said. "Use all the power we can and do so it fast that we'll be back home for dinner!"

I breathed deeply. "That's not the way," I thought.

'I don't believe the President," he continued, sadly now. "It's just a lot of talk. Nothing ever gets done. And I betcha that ten years from now Bin Laden will still be alive".

There is so much frustration, so much anger, so much confusion. Our world has been shaken and we all deal with it in different ways.

I'm uncomfortable in the subway too. It happened to be rush hour and I was going someplace near 34th Street and so I got off at Penn Station. There were so many people who got off the train that we were shoulder to shoulder until we exited through the turnstiles. We'd be trapped if there were a bomb or a small vial of a biological weapon.

Later I met a friend. She was smiling. "I feel extremely safe in New York now," she said. "After all, they've already hit us. And look at all the security around."

She certainly does have a point. I just wish I could feel that way.

 

Dateline: Spring Street, America Fights Back - October 8, 2001

Of course I knew it would happen. It was just a matter of "when".

And yet I was unprepared for my rush of emotion as the news broke on TV
shortly before 1 p.m. on Sunday. I'm sad and glad at the same time. We had
no choice. We had been attacked! I liked what the President said, and am
glad for the humanitarian food drops and his insistence that this is not a
war against Islam.

I went to the gym up on 56th Street then, hoping to work out my mounting
stress with exercise and looking forward to watching the news analysis. .
But as I approached the "Life Strider" area, a sweating middle-aged man was
deeply into his exercise with the overhead TV turned to the football game.

"Aren't you watching the news," I said. "We've attacked Afghanistan."

He shot me a look of annoyance, never breaking his workout stride. "I had
it on before," he said. "They don't show anything. Just a lot of talk."
The TV flickered above his head, the football players tackling each other,
the crowd roaring. "I'm watching the game," he said, "I want to see some
REAL action."

I retreated to another area of the gym where I could watch the war news.
Osama bin Laden was speaking then as I worked out on the bike, but it was
impossible for me to concentrate on pedaling as I listened to his words
calling for an all-out holy war. I couldn't wait to shower and leave the
gym. The time I spent there seemed so irrelevant.

Instead of taking the subway downtown, I opted for the bus. Recently the
City has removed all the trash bins in the subway stations as a security
measure to eliminate places a bomb can be hidden. New Yorkers joke that
nobody would notice, as people don't use the trash bins anyway. Lately,
though, I'm reluctant to use the Subway unless it's absolutely necessary.

As the bus crept along I felt a wave of nausea, sorry I had wolfed down a
cup of coffee and piece of crumb cake at Starbucks just because I was so
hungry. I tend to get carsick easily and now I was paying the price.

Some people got on at Times Square and said the subway station was closed.
I looked out the window and, sure enough, there were police officers
blocking every entrance. Later, there was nothing in the papers about this
so I can only assume that it was either a false alarm or that whatever
happened was handled quickly. I hear rumors all the time. Everyone seems
to know some cop who talks about finding vans filled with dynamite or
unexploded bombs. I don't believe them. This is a free country and it's
hard to keep stuff like this from the media.

The bus crept along and I shivered with my own personal discomfort. Traffic
was at a complete standstill when we reached the twenties and I could see up
ahead that there was a demonstration going on at Union Square. I got off
the bus, glad for the fresh air and found a rest room in Barnes and Noble
where I actually did throw up.

Feeling better, I went out in the street where the peace rally was going on.
Union square was filled with people carrying signs and chanting. "Our Grief
is Not a Cry for War", "Islam Arabs and Immigrants are Not the Enemy".
Most of the signs looked too professional for an impromptu protest. I
wondered about that and later found out that this march had been scheduled
in advance. It was just coincidence that the attack had occurred that same
afternoon. There were the usual left wing groups, ex-hippies with long gray
ponytails and college students. The crowd was estimated to be about 3,000
and they marched uptown with a police escort. Frankly, they all seemed out
of touch. There was one young man in a counter demonstration holding up a
sign towards the marchers. "Smile," it said. "You've Starring in the Next
Taliban Propaganda Film."

As I walked downtown, it was business as usual with most stores flying
flags. Even the acrobats in Washington Square Park are wearing shorts with
stars and stripes on them, and one of the middle age folk singers who play
songs from the 70s is wearing a red, white and blue bandana, another member
of their group dressed in a camouflage jacket with a Vietnam Vet patch on
it.

The anti-war people are a small minority. I don't agree with them but I'm
glad they are here. Dissent is a proud American tradition. It's one of the
reasons that we have to fight.

 

A Walk on the West Side - October 12, 2001

Used to be that my favorite walk was along the Hudson River, past Battery
Park City and the World Trade Center. It was the prettiest walk in the
City, the New Jersey Shoreline and the Statue of Liberty off in the distance
as I walked through planned landscaped gardens and passed sweeping lawns,
beds of flowers, creative playgrounds and commissioned public art.

Things are changed. Battery Park City is completely off limits. But I
still wanted walk along the river park and see how far I could go.

The media stations that had vehicles all along the West Side Highway are
gone now and traffic is moving smoothly. And there, at Christopher Street,
a group of volunteers still wave flags and shout words of encouragement to
the police, fire and medical vehicles who are coming from Ground Zero.

I spoke to Sue, who has been there almost every day since the beginning.
When I first saw her last month the day was hot and she was dressed in red,
white and blue glitter and tight revealing shorts. But the summer has
turned to autumn, the days are cooler now, and Sue is dressed in long pants
and leather jacket covered with patches and pins which she proudly points
out have been given to her by police and fire departments from all over the
country. There are at least a dozen people here, one an elderly woman in a
long dark coat holding up a sign that says "thank you", and several
tourists.

I stand there a while and join the cheering, smiling at the "thumbs up" and
responsive calls not only from the police, fire and military vehicles, but
also from regular people in passenger cars who appreciate what this group is
doing.

Sue strains her eyes and looks down the highway. "Here comes an ambulance,"
she says.

In spite of the bright sunlight, the ambulance has its headlights on as it
makes its way up the highway, escorted by police motorcycles and vehicles,
also with their headlights on.

I'm ready to cheer but I stop, aware that the group is doing something else.
They are standing quietly, with their right hands over their hearts. It is
a somber moment, very different from the cheers and whoops being called out
just a few moments ago.

"They've found a body, or a body part," Sue explains. "They're on their way
to the morgue."

I shudder and feel a familiar sadness. Then I bid the group adieu and
continue my walk.

I'm glad to see the waterfront park is open in this area and I make my way
downtown. There are a few joggers and roller bladders and bicycles and
there's a crisp breeze carrying a clean river smell. When I come to Pier 40
I walk all the way out, enjoying the feel of being surrounded by water on
three sides. From here I have a clear view of the Statue of Liberty, a
sight that always brings joy to my heart. It might not be open to the
public right now but it sure is still there, looking small and distant and
strong, the torch of liberty still held high.

I look to my left and the skyline of downtown New York sparkles in the
afternoon sun. It's different now though. The World Trade Center isn't
there but I find it hard to locate exactly where it used to be because there
are so many other beautiful buildings. "We still have a skyline," I think.
Yes. We sure do. There might be a couple of buildings gone, but we do
still have a skyline. Somehow, this small fact comforts me.

 

A November Walk Downtown - November 19, 2001

I didn't mean to walk down to Ground Zero. Indeed, I wanted to avoid it.
And so I turned west on Chambers Street and entered Hudson Square Park,
looking out over the water and trying to keep my eyes from where the World
Trade Center used to be. The smell is gone now, but I couldn't help but
hear the sound of heavy machinery and bulldozers, even on a bright Sunday
afternoon in late November.

I lean on the curved metal rail and look down into the water, watching the
ripples catching sunlight, the gray craggy rocks at the base of the pier
covered with clumps of moss and seaweed. Due to the efforts of several
environmental groups, the river is now alive with marine life. It's so
alive, however, that this entire park that runs along the river was sinking
due to borer worms destroying the pilings that hold the landfill in place,
landfill that all came from the original construction of the World Trade
Center.

And so, just two years ago, this entire area, which is called the North
Meadow, was under re-construction as work crew replaced the pilings with
more durable material. There's a beautiful rolling lawn here now, sparkling
green and well kept. I see a boy with a kite and two men tossing a
football. There's a couple with a baby in a little pink snowsuit. And
another couple just lying on the lawn, the man's face catching the November
sun's weak rays, his arms around a woman who has cuddled next to him, one
green denim leg draped over his. There's fresh plantings of sea grass around
the edges of the lawn. Last year they looked like scraggy weeds but they've
spread out have and taken root now and tall pale fuzzy yellow stalks wave in
the soft cool breeze as well as shorter flat leafed plants that remind me of
the shucked leaves of fresh corn.

There are benches here and well kept paths and several people on bicycles.
There's a basketball court with four baskets and small groups of players at
each basket. Each group is multi-cultural as is typical in New York they
seem to have self-selected themselves in groups that reflect their relative
heights. The shortest are the boys about ten years old. The next shortest
group is made up of mostly Asian teenagers. The next group includes one
woman. And the very tallest group consists of either African American or
white men. I watch awhile. They don't seem very competitive and they don't
play very well. They miss baskets, can't seem to guard each other or
dribble. But they all seem to be having a great time.

And then, just when my thoughts were focused on the beauty of the day and a
few people with fishing rods and the Statue of Liberty standing straight and
tall off in the harbor, I found myself in front of the Financial Center.
Then, almost as if in a trance, I started walking out of the Park towards
Ground Zero, closer than I had been able to get before.

There's a constant moving stream of people down here and even though there's
a sign that says "no photos", some people are taking them anyway. I don't
have a camera but there is no camera better than my eyes because the memory
is clear. From where I stood I could see about 6 or 7 stories left of one
of the buildings. There are concrete pillars between the floors that look
like tombstones. The blackened and burnt floors have collapsed and are just
hanging there. I can picture the people that day, trying to grasp something
solid as the floors collapsed under their feet and the ceilings crashed down
above their heads. I think of the flames and the panic and being crushed
and incinerated.
I'm just a few hundred feet away and very aware that I'm alive and that I
wasn't in those buildings on that day just because my workplace was further
uptown. It's a humbling thought.

I look at the face of the people standing around me and see everyone just
staring. There's an eerie silence. Nobody speaks. A couple holds hands.
Nobody seems to want to hang around too long. Neither do I.

But I don't want to go back in the park either. And so I circle the area of
ground zero, going as close as I can from all different angles. I view that
mass of what used to be the essence of vitality now turned into this tangled
and burned mess. Slowly I make my way up the street that used to border the
front of the buildings. There are translucent screens here and most of the
rubble has been carted away. Street vendors sell honey roasted peanuts and
frankfurters and pretzels. There are various red, white and blue pins and
hats and scarves and earrings for sale. And of course there are lots of
postcards with pictures of what used to be the New York skyline.

I've had enough. Time to leave. But I'll be back. After all I live here.

 

Ground Zero - three months later - December 21, 2001

It's mostly about the memorials now. And tourists. You can't see much
beyond the chain link fences that separate the people from the site, but the
sound of heavy machinery is constant, and there is still a faint dust and
scent of smoke in the air.

There are so many people here that it feels like the subway at rush hour.
Slowly, very slowly we pass by the fences that are covered with various
mementos. There are tee shirts and baseball caps with messages of sympathy
from all over the world. Among others, I see one from Old Dominion
University as well as the 8th grade at Oxnard, California. There's a hand
made knit cap from Nanny Duffy from Ireland. There are signs and messages
from Walla Walla and Boca Raton and Clayton County. There are a lot of
flags. And wreaths. There's a British flag and the poem "In Flanders
Fields". There's a big sign that says "Holland Loves New York". There are
drawings from kindergartens and lots of fresh flowers.

There's a lot of people, many with cameras, and yet there's an eerie silence
in spite of the vendors selling postcards and trinkets with photos of the
World Trade Center. Every once in a while someone bursts into tears. I've
done all my crying long ago but am somehow comforted by the sheer flow of
humanity around me.

There are some fresh pieces of fabric on the fence where there is still some
room to write messages. I pick up the crayon. "Thank you," I write, "from
a New Yorker".

 

Towers of Light - March 12, 2002

The two columns of light are blue against the night sky. They're narrower
than I expected, and cloudy, seeming to blend together as they rise up and
end in a puff of light far below the ceiling of stars.

I live near Spring Street in downtown Manhattan, about a mile from where the
World Trade Center used to be. Right after 9/11, there was a huge cloud of
smoke in the area for weeks and the sickly sweet smell of something burning.
Later, there was nothing but emptiness instead of the familiar twin tower
landscape that I once took for granted. I'd walk home and look up, always
aware of the empty space in the sky. And even though I don't stare at the
sky with the frequency I did then, I will always see the ghosts of what
was - and what is no more.

That's why I was especially pleased about these twin beams of light that
will occupy our horizon for the next few years as a memorial to those who
died, a tribute to the rescue workers and a reminder of our strength in
spite of what we lost that day.

I thought I'd be able to see these towers of light from everywhere. But
walking home from Astor Place last night I found the buildings kept getting
in my way, and I could only glimpse them from the crosswalks. They became
very clear on LaGuardia Place, which is a big wide street, and I walked the
next few blocks with my head tilted upward, basking in their glow in the
cold crisp air.

It was 8:30 p.m., and there were dozens of people on the street. Not one of
them was looking at the lights. Of course this doesn't mean they didn't see
them, or that they didn't care. Even I won't be able to walk around with my
held tilted upwards all the time. And so, to me, seeing these lights for
the first time was a very personal thing- as if they had been turned on for
me alone, to lead me home each evening and offer comfort. I'm SO glad
they're there.

 

Ground Zero Viewing Platform - April 8, 2002

On Broadway and Fulton Street, directly across from what used to be the
World Trade Center, the first of four viewing platforms opened in January.
Immediately, it became a tourist attraction with lines so long that
thousands of people waited in the cold for hours, clogging the narrow
streets for blocks around. Something had to be done. And so a plan was put
into place whereby tickets would be given away free each day at the South
Street Seaport, with a specific time to visit the site. Good idea.

Last Sunday I took the mile-long walk downtown. The streets around the site
are open now and people can walk directly on the street adjacent to the area
where the majestic towers once stood. Of course there are barriers
surrounding the empty piece of sky that used to be part of my skyline, but
the platform, which stands only about a story above the street, was filled
with people pointing cameras everywhere. Even though I was tired, I decided
walk over to South Street Seaport, which is about a half hour walk from the
site, and pick up a ticket. I arrived there about 1:45 and was given the
time slot of 6:30-7:00 p.m. I walked around the Seaport for a few minutes,
but there were just too many hours to kill. And so I left, determined to
come back the following week. And so, this Sunday I went directly to the
Seaport. I got there at noon, and was given a ticket for 3:30-4:00 p.m. I
was prepared too because I had brought a book with me and sat in the food
court at the Seaport and read until my appointed time.
The entrance to the platform is bordered by Trinity Church, which is flanked
all around the block with memorials now showing signs of wear. The
photographs and poems have been placed in plastic, but the plastic is
cracked and dusty, the bedsheets with thousands of hand-written sentiments
have been discolored, the ink faded from being outside all winter, and the
tee-shirts and caps left by fire departments and schools from around the
world look like they need a good washing. The teddy bears look dirty and
the so do the artificial flowers. And then there are all those faded flags.
There are some bright spots though from the thousands of colorful paper
cranes hanging in bunches on the fence, so recently donated from
schoolchildren in Japan that their colors sparkle in the early spring
sunlight.

The plywood walls on the platform are covered with signatures of the people
who've been here, so many that I have a hard time finding a tiny spot to add
my own. We're told to wait and I chat with a couple who came up from
Pennsylvania specifically to visit the site, and we keep our voices low as
there's a feeling of reverence and respect in the air. Suddenly, there is
the sound of playful laughter as a half dozen children race up the platform,
their sounds of glee breaking though the somber mood. But then, naturally,
without being told, they stop running and quiet down, as even these
high-spirited youngsters sense the mood that prevails.

We stand on the platform with a few hundred people, all politely waiting our
turn to be the 30 or so at a time to be allowed to stand in front. Some of
us are wearing scarves of red, white and blue, which stand out like small
banners. Directly to our right is the Trinity Church graveyard whose
tombstones have stood there for centuries, small weathered monuments, their
chiseled memorials almost illegible, looking small and crooked under ancient
bare trees which are just getting ready to bud. And, on the platform, to the
left, is a small memorial of dust from the tragedy, with a shovel standing
upright and a half dozen small American flags.

After a few minutes, I am allowed to move to the front, lean my elbows on
the plywood and look across the street to what now is just a construction
site. I see the dome of the Financial Center in the background looking dark
and unused. And I see empty skyscrapers with broken windows surrounding the
site. But we are not high enough up to see the ground or how deep the hole
is that is being dug. It's Sunday and there is no construction going on,
just some huge work trucks parked and waiting for use, some shacks to hold
equipment, and a long line of port-a-sans for the workers. The street below
is busy as people are allowed there now. They look up at us on the platform
as I looked at others last week and probably think that we are seeing a lot
more than they are on the ground. My only camera is my eyes and the words
that come to my mind. But everyone else seems to be taking pictures - snap,
snap, snap. There is nothing really to see. Just a construction site and
an empty space where the towers once were.

I've cried a lot of tears these past few months. But I'm dry eyed now.
Then, as we walk down the platform, there's a memorial on the wall that
lists the names of the dead. Some of names are circled and there are
signatures from their friends and relatives. There are fresh flowers here
and messages and cards. The one that brings me to tears is a colorful
birthday card addressed, "to my sister".

As I look off to my right, there's life size sculpture inspired by a 1932
snapshot of workers constructing the Empire State Building. This particular
piece was completed in 2001 and honors the ironworkers who risk their lives
to work on skyscrapers. It's a fitting reminder of what once was and what
is here no more. http://www.SergioFurnari.com/

I checked out the internet for other photos of the site and recommend
http://www.mediaeater.com/pictures/2002/January_2002/ground-zero-platform-on
e/. These are high-resolution photos and take a little while to download
but they do give you a feel of what it feels like to be there.

I'm saddened, as I always am when I'm near ground zero. I still get chills
as I remember that fateful day. I'm glad I've done this small pilgrimage
though and know I'll be visiting the other three platforms when they are
completed. I can't seem to stay away from everything connected with 9/11.
I'm indeed fortunate that my loved ones are safe and well. But I know I'll
never forget that day.

 

Dateline: Spring Street -- One Year Later - September 11, 2002

The 9/11 memorials are everywhere. I can't avoid them. My neighborhood has
signs posted about a special service that was to be held at 5:30 a.m. down
near Ground Zero. Then later on tonight there will be a candlelight
ceremony at the local firehouse. I'm not interested in attending any of
these ceremonies. And don't even want to watch TV today. I've had enough.
I don't need formal gatherings to stir my memories of those awful dark days
last year.

As many of you know, I live about a mile from the site where the World Trade
Center used to be. Those tall towers were part of my landscape, and I must
admit I took them for granted. For months later I would look down Spring
Street and could only see the hole in the world where they used to be. It
took weeks and weeks until all the smoke cleared and then it worse. And
every time I walked down my block I thought of it. That time has passed
now. I'm usually thinking of something else and don't concentrate on the
empty sky. But I do know I've changed. As have all of us here in New York.

I remember that morning. We were having a primary election and I had left
my apartment early in order to go to the polls. Then I took the subway to
work. I remember I was reading Edith Wharton's "The Age of Innocence". And
as my train pulled into the station I had just read a part where the
character was thinking that his whole life was planned out for him and
nothing would ever change. I remember agreeing with that thought as I
walked up the subway steps.

I work in the Grand Central Station area, in mid-Manhattan, several miles
north of the disaster site. It was 9 a.m. and everything seemed normal.
The receptionist informed me that my boss, who comes in from Staten Island,
and has to take a train from the downtown area, had just called to say he'd
be late. "He said there was some sort of accident at the World Trade
Center," she said.

I honestly didn't think anything of it, but put on my computer to see if I
could get any news. I couldn't access any news websites. Someone else came
in and said they heard that a plane hit the World Trade Center. Again, I
thought it was an accident. We all thought it might be a helicopter. My
boss arrived a few minutes later as his subway had not been affected. We
don't have a TV in the office but someone had a portable radio. Mostly, all
we got was static. But we did get National Public Radio. The reporters
were all trying to keep calm as they found out the details. All we could
think of was "terrible accident". And then they said that a second plane
was headed for the World Trade Center and there was speculation if this was
a terrorist attack.

By this time, one of the young men in our office who comes from Greece,
fiddled around with is computer until he could find the Greek website. We
gathered around his workstation and all watched a streaming video of the
towers in flames as he translated the Greek words describing what was
happening. I remember my horror and confusion. But I didn't cry until we
heard that the Pentagon had been hit too.

There was no way I wanted to stay at work. But nobody told us we could go.
And we were all wondering if it was safer to stay in our office or to go out
into the streets. I called my son then. He and his wife live just a few
blocks from my office and they were both home. "I'm coming over" I told
them, and left the office, even before an alarm came a few minutes later
that there was a rumor of a bomb in Grand Central Station and everyone had
to evacuate. That threat proved to be false, but I had already left the
area.

The streets were full of people. And every bar and restaurant that had a TV
was filled with people. All transportation was halted and people who lived
in the suburbs or outer boroughs were stuck in the city. I was lucky.
After I left my son's apartment a few hours later, I could walk the few
miles home.

As I walked down my block, there was a big cloud of smoke where the World
Trade Center used to be.

Later, I walked as far as I could get downtown and watched the third
building fall.

I'm lucky. I didn't lose any loved ones in the tragedy.

My days at work were reduced to only two days per week and that was awful,
but luckily it only lasted a few months.

The site has been cleared now. Businesses have reopened. Life goes on. We
don't even use the words "World Trade Center" any more; we now speak of
"Ground Zero".

But I do know one thing. And that is that my own "age of innocence" is
over. I'll never take anything for granted again.

 

"The mourning is over," I think - October 14, 2002

As I take my favorite walk downtown. I live near Spring Street, about a
mile north of where the World Trade Center used to be. And I've seen a lot
of changes in the beautiful waterfront park that borders the Hudson River
since 9/11.

In the early days after the horrific event, pedestrians weren't allowed in
this area at all. There were emergency vehicles and media crews from all
over the world, and it was a site where people donated bottles of water,
clean socks and clothing for the rescue workers. There were candles and
flowers everywhere, and yellow ribbons on the metal gates. And there were
photos of loved ones lost in the tragedy posted on every available vertical
surface.

Weeks later, pedestrians could again walk downtown, but only to Chambers
Street. It took more than six months to open up the walk completely to the
public. As this area borders the West Side Highway as well, a large group
of people regularly stood at Christopher Street, waving flags and cheering
for all the emergency vehicles driving north coming from Ground Zero. Many
cars had flags too. It was inspiring

Finally pedestrians were allowed to walk downtown. I remember the
devastation at the World Financial Center. I remember the military
presence. And I remember being very sad.

A year has passed now. Things are different.

The site is clean now. The memorials are all down. There are few, if any
flags on cars whizzing by. And nobody's standing the West Side Highway and
cheering.

The sun shines and people are out there jogging and bicycling and
rollerblading.

There's a new place now to rent bikes. The sign says that a helmet is free
in the price of a rental. I notice that about half the people in the park
use helmets, usually children and parents together. The adults without
children ride bareheaded.

More things have changed. I see a big sign. "Get Caught Having Fun" it
says. I have to smile now. There's a trapeze school right between the
walkways and the West Side highway. I stop and watch. An area measuring
no more than a little more than 100 feet long and about 36 feet wide is
gated off from the public. But it's easy to see the trapeze equipment, the
huge net underneath it, and trapeze students taking lessons. I watch as a
young woman is taking a private lesson. "Wanna try a back flip?" asks the
instructor on the ground as she talks the student through the motions and
lands her safely in the net.

Another small group is waiting. I see them listening carefully to
instructions. A little girl of about ten holds on to the bar and swings out
and later a woman in her forties tries too, but neither of them does more
than that and the instructor slowly lowers them down to the net. And then
there's a slim young man who knows just how to swing his legs back and forth
and the instructor talks him through a flip. Everyone cheers.

I'm not the only one watching. Everyone on the path stops and looks up.
Anyone who has a camera has it pointed upward. It all seems like great fun.
A sign gives their website address www.trapezeschool.com which I know I will
check out later. A trapeze school right here in my own backyard. Who would
have ever thunk?

A little further on, there's construction going on. A skate park is being
built. I see half pipes and ramps, all partially constructed. It looks very
near completion. In the meantime, there's a mini-skate park right in front
of Stuyvesant High School. There are a dozen children there, ranging in age
from 7 to about 13, most of them boys. Most have skateboards, but there's a
little boy on a bike too. They're all wearing helmets and knee protectors.
Most of them are not very good. They fall a lot. But their parents are
there too, cheering them on and encouraging them to keep on going.

I keep walking. The entire area is built on landfill and a few years ago
many of the lawns had to be ripped up because, as the Hudson River was
becoming cleaner and marine life was returning, borer worms were destroying
the foundations. The lawns are all back now, and so is the foliage and
flower plantings. People sunbathe, toss balls around and fly kites. But
even though there is no law against it, there is very little picnicking.
And the few picnic tables are usually empty.

It's a great joy to see the World Financial Center open again. This whole
area had been gated off from the public for months. There had been debris
everywhere. But it's all cleaned up now. And events are going on. A free
Big Apple Circus show was just ending and the area was full of small
children with their parents leaving the event. I see from the program that
there are some interesting dance events scheduled for the future, and the
whole inside of the Winter Garden area has been restored. It's beautiful
there, with huge palm trees in the sparkling glass rotunda. It's like
nothing had ever happened.

There are even a few boats in the docking area, although not as many as I
remember from years past, but people are kayaking on the river.
I raise my eyes and see the Statue of Liberty in all her glory, raising her
torch over the harbor. I've seen this sight hundreds of times, but it
always has the power to bring a tear to my eye. "Lady Liberty" is still
there, "I think, "and the year of mourning is surely over."

 

All contents Copyright (C) 2001-2002 Linda Linguvic All rights reserved.

Last Updated October 26, 2002